“Into the Valley” *
NV-160 W approaching Pahrump, NV
Breakfast in-room complete, I check out and get on the road by 11 am in 91º F / 33º C heat and clear blue skies. Death Valley here I come.
It’s flat, straight and boring as you might expect driving through a desert. After I-15 S out of Vegas, it’s right onto NV-160 W, the Pahrump Valley Highway. In Pahrump I turn left onto an unnumbered road, cross into California and then a few miles on at Death Valley Junction I cross CA-127 onto CA-190 W. This will take me into Death Valley National Park.
CA-190 undulates a little and there are hills to either side. At the National Park entrance there is a self-policing unstaffed Entry Point to pay the park fee. It’s the last time I will use my Annual Park Pass but no-one is there to check it! I definitely got value for money out of that Pass though.
CA-190 W approaching Death Valley
Soon after entry I turn left onto Furnace Creek Wash Road, a 13 mile drive to Dantes View. There is clear evidence of last week’s flash floods in places as the road is covered in sand, stones and gravel that washed over the road surface. For some reason the road becomes Dantes View Road at some point, probably where the road starts to climb to the peak. And when I get there, a 5,475 feet high viewpoint on the ridge of the Black Mountains, what a view it is. 
I didn’t really know what Dantes View was other than it was one of the recommended “must see” points of interest. As mentioned, it was going to be optional on last year’s trip (and probably this year’s), dependent on time.
Sidenote: there is clearly some confusion as to whether Dantes has an apostrophe or not. The National Park website does not use one but other sources do. I’m going without.
Dantes View – And What a View!
Badwater Basin in Death Valley from Dantes View
Badwater Basin close-up
The view from the summit, from a breathtaking, panoramic viewpoint terrace, is incredible. It looks down over the totality of Death Valley with Telescope Peak across the valley. Almost directly below the paved and walled viewing area is Badwater Basin, North America’s lowest point. I can’t see anyone there. Not a surprise given the road closure to the north and the south access being such a massive detour.
The summit is quite a large area. People are walking over the mountain top to get clearer views and a different perspective of the Valley. Initially I think it looks like too much hard work as it’s quite hilly. But the temperature at the summit is ‘only’ 85º F / 30º C and there was quite a fresh breeze. Down in the Valley when I entered the Park it was 94º F / 34º C.
So I set off to climb some small hills. It was well worth it. I got to see more of the Valley from a more central viewpoint. At the paved viewing area, part of the mountain top obscured the southern end of the Valley. When you walk onto that section, you can see the whole of the Valley unencumbered.
Dantes View panorama
It is a great view and most unexpected. When done, I drive back down the mountain and turn left at the end back onto CA-190 W. Seven miles down the road I arrive at Zabriskie Point and pull into the parking lot. I eat my lunch in the lot, keeping the engine running for the air con. It is 104º F / 40º C outside under a blazing sun and mostly clear blue skies.
“I’m too hot (Hot damn)” **
It is time to brave the heat. There is a gentle but steady incline up a concrete path to the viewing area. I take it very slow to avoid overheating. I did get a bit hot on Dantes View and am still trying to cool down a bit. Perhaps walking in 104º F heat is not such a bright idea?
I made it up to the viewing area without a massive sweating overload. I take in the stunning scenery and take some photos. Being conscious of the heat however, it’s time to head back down and get out of the sun. I descend slowly. I learnt my lesson ten years ago on the Pacific Coast Highway trip when my body reacted to sudden and frequent large changes in temperature, from high heat externally to cold in-car air conditioning.
Zabriskie Point panorama
This time I’m managing the change by keeping the car window open as I drive and turning the air con off. This way I get a breeze as I drive but am not in the direct sun, and my body gradually cools back down and I don’t break out in a sweat all over.
A few miles further south I stop just past a sign saying “Elevation – Sea Level” at the junction with Badwater Road. I see a barrier across the road stopping access and a sign in the road saying “Flooded’. As per last year’s ‘postponement’ of the trip here, I didn’t know if or when I might be able to get to see Death Valley. To do so a year after is amazing. Shame I can’t get to Badwater Basin and Artist’s Pallet, maybe another time, who knows. But at least I can now say “I’ve been to Death Valley – and it was hot!”
Near Furnace Creek, Death Valley
The flooded and closed Badwater Road
“…just turn it off” ***
The drive out of the Valley is through mainly desert scrub land although the Mesquite Flat Dunes offer a different landscape as they undulate in the distance. Unbelievably, it’s getting hotter. I pass a road sign advising to turn off car air conditioning to avoid over-heating. I’ve always been sceptical of this but I do recall on the ascent of Pikes Peak in Colorado that Monica the driver turned off the bus’ A/C.
CA-190 W west of Panamint Springs in Death Valley
I don’t know enough about to cars to determine if this is scaremongering or not. Then I figure the sign wouldn’t be there if it wasn’t true. Not wanting to take a chance, I turn it off and open the window to get some airflow through a rather warm car interior.
It’s a good fast drive as well with lots of twists and turns in the road. I have an SUV on my tail and he keeps up with me. Not that he could pass because there is no overtaking, the road is too narrow. He wasn’t tailgating me so was obviously OK with my speed. There were no 20 mph bends in the road, it was a challenging, fast drive, something that has been missing from this trip so far.
CA-190 W west of Panamint Springs
I go over Towne Pass at 4,956 feet then descend for a while before climbing again, this time to an unnamed summit. This section of road is really good, with some tight bends that need to be taken slow. From there it is a gradual descent towards Lone Pine, my overnight stop.
Into Lone Pine
I get to the junction with US-395, probably my least favourite road, and turn right. A couple of miles up the road and I’m in the small town of Lone Pine. There weren’t many options of where to stay having left Vegas and done Death Valley. Lone Pine was about the only town of any size in the area.
View from Dow Villa Motel room
The Dow Villa Motel is right on US-395. It turns out to be a good motel. I’m in a second floor room, which I don’t particularly like because you have to carry your bags upstairs. The room is very good. After settling in I walk a block up US-395 to a supermarket for tomorrow’s breakfast. Another block up is the bar I’d chosen for tonight. Seems OK, but I become concerned for some reason that they don’t serve food.
I don’t know why I just didn’t go inside and ask but I call them when back at the motel. They don’t serve food. How did I miss that? I need to find another option, and I don’t think they are many.
TripAdvisor guides me to Seasons, which I remember seeing on my walk. The reviews are very good. I call them and they say I shouldn’t need a reservation. One review said they had a small bar area that you can eat at instead of a formal table.
Seasons for Dinner
When I arrive at 7.45 pm I ask if I can sit at the bar. The server takes me around the back and into the bar, which is actually full. She somehow manages to perch me on the end with very little space on the bar. I wonder how I will fit a plate of food anywhere. I just go with the flow…
Luckily, before my main course arrives, the two guys to my right pay their check and leave, so I quickly move along before anyone else might arrive. I taste the IPA on tap and it is very good. The food however is restaurant style, not bar food, and not really suited to beer.
For the first time on this trip I order a half bottle of red wine to go with the Elk Medallions I’d ordered. Never eaten elk before. These were very good. They were served with cranberries, walnuts and a red wine sauce. To be honest it tasted much like a beef steak, and none the worse for that. The meal came with a salad as a starter. I thought this a bit superfluous but it also wasn’t very nice, somewhat difficult to achieve given it was mainly lettuce, cucumber and blue cheese dressing.
Dow Villa Motel, Lone Pine, CA
I didn’t finish the Elk, portion size too big again. The Syrah red wine I chose to accompany was very good. Edgar, the bar man, was a good lad and I had some good chats with him over the course of my time at the bar.
One aspect I did notice was the camaraderie between the restaurant’s staff. They all seemed happy and were bouncing off each other all evening. One thing Edgar told me was that the twisty road from Death Valley to Lone Pipe – the great second section – is called the “Wind-ies” by locals. He pronounced it ‘wind’ as in winding up a clock, not the weather connotation.
Edgar was a very good and nice host. We shook hands as I left. I did think of staying and moving off the wine onto the IPA beer but decided I’d sample the delights – or not – of the dive bar, Jake’s Saloon, I’d forgone earlier.
And pretty dead it was when I got there, just gone 9 pm. When I walked past earlier it was very busy. I get another IPA to drink and edit photos on my phone as there is no-one to talk to. The bar closes at 10 pm, a late closer in these parts. I however leave well before that to retire to my room for some diary writing before going to bed.
* Into the Valley by Skids
** Uptown Funk by Mark Ronson ft. Bruno Mars
*** Turn It Off by Paramore
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