Onto Paso Robles

Museum of Western Film History

Museum leaflet

There’s another reasonably long drive ahead today, once I’ve visited the Museum of Western Film History. This was another reason to stay in Lone Pine. I’d read about it when doing the Western Parks & Forests road trip but I turned off US-395 much further up the road, so it wasn’t an option. After breakfast I check out and take the short drive back down US-395 S to the Museum. I pay my $8 “donation” to enter at 11 am.

Lone Pine is in the Alabama Hills, a range of hills and rock formations near the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada. The area found favour with Hollywood from about 1920 to the 50s. 100s of (mainly) cowboy films were made there on location and the Museum celebrates that period.

It’s a small building – you wouldn’t, and I didn’t, spend more than an hour inside – but it’s lovingly done and with immaculate exhibits. It recognises a unique period of film history, and whilst some modern films still use the area, it was fascinating to learn how during a period of Hollywood’s past, the Alabama Hills played such a significant part.

To Paso Robles

Around noon I resume my love-hate relationship with US-395 S. I didn’t come this far south on the Parks & Forests trip but the section I’m on today is crap and boring. By 1 pm, with a few clouds in the sky and at 86º F / 30º C, I’m bored. I’m driving through a desert and there’s nothing to see.

CA-46 W near Lost Hills, CA

At a place called Bradys US-395 goes off to the left and my road changes to CA-14 S. Later on near California City when I turn left onto CA-58 E, I saw a gas station where I buy, and eat, a sandwich for lunch. My route is the other way though, on CA-58 W towards Bakersfield, also named the Barstow-Bakersfield Highway. There are at least some signs of life road-side here and there, with industrial buildings, the odd gas station and some farms. Trees and shrubs plus small hills also populate the landscape.

After Bakersfield there’s a short section of I-5 N to negotiate before a left turn onto CA-46 W that will take me all the way to Paso Robles on the Paso Robles Highway. There has been nothing really of interest on today’s drive.

CA-46 W near Shandon, CA

I arrive in Paso Robles at the Albertson’s supermarket on the outskirts of town to buy supplies. Job done, I head into town and the Stables Inn. This was the only hotel located in downtown as I recall. It is very basic in the room: there is no safe, iron and board, closet (real or imagined) or suitcase trestle. Just a fridge. Bit poor really. It’s a sunny blue sky and 83º F / 28º C, thankfully cooler than of late.

Paso Robles Brewing Co.

The Paso Robles Brewing Company bar area

Everything here closes early, especially bars. The Paso Robles Brewing Co. just up the road is no exception. Kitchen closes at 8 pm, the bar at 9, last call is 8.40 pm (although in writing this up I see they now close at 8.30 pm every night!). I walk out of my room at the hotel – the rooms are all individual cabins, I assume stables of old – and I feel a chill in the air. I return to get my sweater.

Stables Inn courtyard

Just ten minutes up the road, it is very quiet in the bar. A barman helps me select a beer, Marzen, which are all brewed on the premises. The vats are in the main room where the bar is. He advises ordering food quickly, so I do: some ribs. The bar is very quiet with very few other customers in.

Paso Robles Brewing Co beer mat

They are very good, less so the sides of mac & cheese and refried beans. Not to my taste. After another beer the staff start to close the bar down. I take this as a cue to leave. Back in my room, it’s still early so it’s a chance for some diary catch-up before going to bed.