St Louis, Gateway To The West

A Very Large Superman

A bit more sleep last night so hopefully I’m getting into sync. Breakfast closes early at 9.30 am so I’m downstairs at 9. It’s a good spread and the best offering I’ve had in a while, remembering how many poor hotel breakfasts there were last year.

After checking out I’m driving out of the parking garage into clear blue skies and 90º F / 32º C heat at 11.10 am. It’s my longest mileage of the trip today although but not by projected time. I later reflect I should have maybe left a bit earlier.

I-24 N near Kuttawa, KY

I-24 W is not any better north of Nashville. An hour in and I enter Kentucky, somewhat unexpectedly. The road is lined with more trees than so I’ve seen so far, which means I can’t see anything roadside. Not that there is probably anything to see. But the trees create a tunnel effect that is quite boring to drive through. A few miles later I enter Illinois and my first stop is in the state at Metropolis.

Why here, you ask? For the biggest Superman statue in the world I reply. Well, it’s something to do. It was also about halfway on today’s journey, so made a good beak point, and then I discovered this bizarre attraction.

I’m not a huge comics fan but who could resist seeing this ‘thing’ in the flesh? (It’s made of bronze apparently.) There is also a Lois Lane statue nearby.

But why? In his various portrayals, Superman resides in a fictional American city named Metropolis, and on April 25 1972, the Illinois State Legislature passed Resolution 572, commending Metropolis for its “Project Superman” community program. Metropolis the city effectively ‘adopted’ Superman and I read somewhere that DC Comics, copyright owner of Superman, have apparently endorsed this. There is also a Superman museum, but I didn’t venture inside.

Fort Massac State Park

After visiting the statues I drive down the street to the Big John supermarket to buy lunch – and find another huge statue road-side.

Big John grocery man statue, Metropolis, IL

Ohio River, Metropolis, IL

My next stop is Fort Massac State Park. Unfortunately I feel I’m running very late. The Fort had some stuff to see but my ETA in St Louis is already 5 pm, which is later than I’d like. Spending time here will delay me further. I’ve learnt over the years not to arrive too late at my final destination because there’s next day prep and other things to do before going out for dinner, otherwise it’s just constant pressure and stress.

So I just drive down to a slipway to the Ohio River in the Park to eat lunch quickly. The River is a magnificent sight here, really wide and majestic.

Back to St Louis

I-70 W near Boonville, MO

Back onto I-24 W not a lot changes apart from the Interstate numbers: I-57 N then I-64 W, crossing the Mississippi River over the Daniel Boone Bridge and into Missouri and the city of St Louis. Interstates also run through the center of St Louis but it’s half a mile off I-64 before I arrive at the Hilton Pennywell St Louis at the Arch hotel around 5.30 pm. It’s been a long time since I first visited St Louis, way back in 2013 on my first road trip.

I park outside in the valet spot and inform the very nice and polite valet that I shall be self-parking in the garage next door after checking in. It’s a lot cheaper than their valet price and they probably park the cars in the same garage anyway.

The weather today held as per the morning but it’s got hotter. It’s 93º F / 34º C when I check-in but hit 95º F / 35º C after leaving Metropolis. I didn’t realise it would be as hot as this at this time of year here.

I-70 W near Montgomery City, MO

Despite missing out on Fort Massac and my late-ish arrival, I get organised and have some downtime before ordering a Lyft at 7.30 pm to take me to Hammerstones in Soulard.

Hammerstones For Some Blues Music

NGK Band business card

Soulard is the district of St Louis where most of the blues clubs are located. But there are no hotels in the district so I stayed as near as possible in downtown. Already playing when I arrive are Big George Jr NGK Band. The bar is near empty however. George is on vocals and tambourine, and he has drums, bass and lead guitar players with him.

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Big George Jr NGK Band

It quickly becomes apparent that they are a very tight knit outfit and also very good. They play covers but with subtle and welcome twists to the arrangements. This makes old favourites sound fresh and new.

I ordered beer and wings. Beer was Octohaze IPA by 4 Hands Brewing Company, so good that I ended up downing five pints! The wings were very good as well but too many as usual. Big G play three sets until 11 pm. Thankfully the bar fills up as the evening progresses, so the band have an enthusiastic audience to play for. Songs included Mannish Boy, Sweet Home Chicago, Stand by Me, My Girl, Born Under A Bad Sign and I’m Your Puppet. The links are to videos of the songs on YouTube.

There is no chat at the bar but none necessary as the music is so good, and I just listen to that. As Big G announces the last number I order a Lyft to take me back downtown. It arrives seconds after I walk out of the bar.

Overall it was a good day on the road, albeit with little to see whilst driving, and of course an excellent evening of food, drink and blues.