Carmel

A Trip To Seaside

I wake early, thinking about the car. I call Alamo at 7-15 am, having laid awake since 6, mulling over what might happen. Good job I called. Patty, the manager, tells me she won’t have any cars until about 4 pm. And even then there’s no guarantee I’d get one. She says she doesn’t know how she’s going to service the customers she’s got booked in who are expecting a car this morning. Oh dear…

Patty does however confirm what Midas told me. She says she has sent Alamo customers there many times without problems. She’s very apologetic but there’s nothing she can do for me and tells me Midas is my best bet. Or only bet apparently, I think to myself. So I’m up early and across for breakfast, which is OK again. Then its into my wounded chariot and driving to Seaside – the town where the Midas depot is – leaving the hotel by 8-10 am.

It is Sunday morning and the roads are deserted. Luckily Midas opened at 8 am. 10 minutes after leaving I arrive and the man on the desk remembers me from last night’s call. We look at the tyre but he can’t see a nail or anything obviously wrong. Next thing I know the car’s on a ramp and the wheel’s off. He comes back a few minutes later to tell me they found a small pin embedded in the tyre and a mechanic was repairing it now. His attitude is 100% opposed to the prick at the garage yesterday morning: “We get loads of business from rentals”, he tells me.

I understand the issue the Pacific Grove guy has as an independent. He needs regular cashflow whereas Midas as a corporate chain maybe don’t care too much. The manager just invoices Alamo and lets corporate finance chase the money. It’s a pity Alamo can’t get their systems sorted to have Midas logged as a repair supplier because I could have got this problem resolved once and for all yesterday morning. 🙂

Entry leaflet

17 Mile Drive

The car is fixed by 9-30 am. The manager tells me the car’s computer will need time for the tyre pressure reading to reset but that it should do so after a while. Then I’m out onto Highway 1 going south and within 20 minutes I’m entering 17 Mile Drive. I enter via the Hwy 1 gate (there’s an entry fee) and immediately I’m surrounded by forest on a narrow winding road. I didn’t know before but there are lots of other roads at various junctions and there are houses in the woods – people live in here. It’s all very picturesque as the road winds down towards the seafront… Soon I’m in Spanish Bay at sea level.

It’s a gorgeous sight. The sky is clear and blue, it’s warming up nicely and there are very few people around. I park up and walk onto the beach of the Bay. Wow, it’s really pretty. After a wander around I’m back in the car and the Drive commences…

OMG. Beautiful. Fantastic. Out of this world, almost. As I drive then stop at various turnouts and car parks, it’s even more stunning than the first morning down the PCH. Waves crashing over rocks, blue sky, sea spray, and surfers riding the waves. It’s all so, so pretty, absolutely fantastic scenery. I stop every few hundred yards to take pictures as another perspective on the views comes to light. The Restless Sea, Point Joe, China Rock, Bird Rock, Seal Rock, Fanshell Overlook… all amazing views, one after another, gobsmacking in their beauty.

I drive around the headland towards the Lone Cypress, an iconic tree that is “one of California’s most enduring landmarks” as the leaflet I got when I paid my entry fee to 17 Mile Drive says. It is as well. I can see Carmel Bay from here and it too is stunning. After Pescadero Point the Drive goes inland around the world famous Pebble Beach Golf Links so I lose sight of the sea except for glimpses through the trees surrounding the golf course.

Into Carmel

And then the Carmel entry/exit gate for the Drive looms into view, so I exit the Drive and I’m in Carmel-by-the-Sea. I’m not one given over to hyperbole but I can say that 17 Mile Drive is one of the most spectacular places and ‘experiences’ that I have ever had, seen or witnessed in my life. Go and see it before you die, you will not be disappointed. Unless of course it’s foggy or blowing a gale in which case the experience might be diminished somewhat…

At Fanshell Overlook on the Drive I could see some sea fog starting to build and roll in. I thought it would cloud over again today so I started to rush a bit – difficult on the narrow road as there are cyclists everywhere – to make sure I finished the Drive in clear weather. Now however it’s cleared up again. That weather…

Carmel Bay

After exiting the Drive I consult a map and park up on the road just above the entrance to the beach at Carmel Bay. It’s a lovely bay and beach, and I wandered down to the sand for a closer look. Back in the car I take the scenic route around the Bay, something I discovered on the web. This takes me on the aptly named Scenic Drive, right on the coast around Carmel Bay, literally hugging the coast. There are loads of houses on the road, overlooking the Bay. Some are actually built on the beach or cliffs. Carmel’s a quirky town and the houses live up to this.

Around another headland and past Carmel River State Beach, the route takes me to the Carmel Mission. This is a church and mission established in 1770 and it’s still active today. In fact I think I just missed a wedding. There’s a Sunday Mass in preparation so my timing seems lucky in terms of being able to wander around the place. It’s the oldest mission in California. The Basilica is really beautiful inside and there’s a large courtyard out back. It was nice to see some old history in the US for a change, so much ‘history’ as they portray it seems to have happened almost yesterday. 🙂

Lunchtime

Back in Carmel town I park up looking for some lunch. I’ve been here once before many years ago (on a Sunday also) but didn’t look around much. I do remember though that it was very quiet. This time however there’s loads of people walking around and it’s very busy. The town is quite small really, all the shops are small and quaint. They are mostly art galleries, restaurants and upmarket tat purveyors, which is not my scene at all. I know the town has very strict planning and development laws and as such it’s almost stuck in a time warp from many years ago. Carmel is worth a visit though to see it, just don’t plan on spending a long time there.

Now I don’t want a proper lunch in a restaurant – and they’re all bloody expensive anyway and most look full. So I hunt for a sandwich shop and eventually find one, the Carmel Bakery. Yes, it’s another turkey & Swiss sandwich – do they not make or serve anything else in California? I find a bench in a secluded small park-type area off one the main roads in the centre. I munch away and slurp my iced tea – nothing as vulgar as Sprite or Pepsi to buy in the Bakery y’know.

After finishing up I wander round a bit more. I use a guide I picked up to identify some of the oldest – and quirkiest – buildings in the town such as the Tuck Box. To be honest though, it’s not that interesting. I decide I’ve seen enough and head out to Point Lobos State Reserve as planned. The weather is warm and sunny as I head out of town.

Point Lobos State Reserve

Out on Hwy 1 again, suddenly, 3 miles out of Carmel just before I reach the Reserve, the fog descended from nowhere. The sky is now clouded over and the temperature has dropped to 63º from the 74º it was a few minutes ago. I debate whether it’s worth going into the Reserve on the basis of “will I see anything at the coast?” But as I’m here I decide I may as well have a wander so I park on the roadside – to save the $10 entry fee. I’d read about this tip somewhere online so I enter the park free of charge. I walk on the trail towards Whaler’s Cove through the forest and shortly the Cove comes into view.

It’s a lovely spot, albeit covered in cloud. I walk around the Cove towards the Whaler’s Hut where there are some interesting displays and artefacts, including huge old whale bones. The name is true, they did actual whaling offshore here in the 1800s. This station is one of many on this part of the California coast where they processed the dead whales for whale oil. It’s very interesting and I’m glad I stopped by here. The clouds however are still around. Given the weather, I decide to go back home rather than do one of the many other trails that there are in the Reserve.